NA CJ Lancer Servicing Complete Thread

[D]

Yeah I no longer go to Mitsi for parts now, or servicing. I have found my own mechanic and supply most of the parts needed. Last service I had I pretty much only paid for labor.

John at DRIVEN??

[shamoo]

[quote:a41e78c2fe=shamoo]Yeah I no longer go to Mitsi for parts now, or servicing. I have found my own mechanic and supply most of the parts needed. Last service I had I pretty much only paid for labor.[/quote:a41e78c2fe] John at DRIVEN??

Lol yep. She's now a driven car. If only I had more money to put into her.

[alex8337]

Quick question,

Why can't I find anything about a fuel filter for my 08 CJ?
I've searched this forum, googled and checked the Ryco website, nothing.
Am I missing something or?

[himynameisdaniel]

your handbook should tell you the service interval.
You need to remove the rear seats to obtain access to fuel tank.
The workshop manual which is on here provides instructions on rear seat removal and filter location.

[sarusa]

I've been told that oil used by Mitsubishi dealers is Castrol semi synthetic oil for servicing lancers.

I am considering going to fully synthetic oil and realize I will have to provide the oil without getting rebate for it as I get my capped price services free. My personal mechanic has suggested not switching to full synthetic till I have covered 5000ks,should have that up on next service, Scheduled service 2 . Possibly use Nulon or might stretch to Mobil one or would it be wise to stick to Castrol full synthetic.
Any suggestions?

[lancerdarryl]

I've been told that oil used by Mitsubishi dealers is Castrol semi synthetic oil for servicing lancers.

I am considering going to fully synthetic oil and realize I will have to provide the oil without getting rebate for it as I get my capped price services free. My personal mechanic has suggested not switching to full synthetic till I have covered 5000ks,should have that up on next service, Scheduled service 2 . Possibly use Nulon or might stretch to Mobil one or would it be wise to stick to Castrol full synthetic.
Any suggestions?

The dealers use whatever oil they have a supply contract with.Booths Mitsubishi in Gosford use Valvoline while Kloster Mitsubishi use Havoline oil for example.Definitely worth going to a full synthetic oil (5w30) just use a popular brand.I have run Castrol Edge 5w30 in my Evo and my wife's VRX from new and have found it quite good.The only drawback is it tends to be pricey.I keep an eye on Repco and Supercheap and buy a few containers when they are on special

[SAM-24A]

I 2nd what lancerdarryl stated about Castrol 5W-30.
It's definitely been the most popular choice of the Synthetic Oils.

Your mechanics statement about clocking approx 5000kms before switching to Full Synthetic is a wise & correct suggestion.
New engines "Break-In" better on Mineral Oils.

[sarusa]

According to owners manual, oil viscosity at 10w-40 appears to be the best at temperature range here in Melbourne with 0W and 5W oils being more suitable for say down towards the Antarctic or head for the snow. Although 5W range extends right across to the warmest parts of AUS:
Note Nulon synthetic appears to be available as 5W-40 and not at 10W-40 so will possibly settle for that. Bit concerned, BUT!

[toc]

I wouldn't be ... run 5W30, remember the 30 is the hot rating so it won't be a problem. I run Nulon's 5W30.

[sarusa]

Will stick to the 40, for slightly better cushion? and quieter running. Cant see any disadvantage over 30.

[burfadel]

I have my 90,000 km service due on my 2013 MY14 Lancer.

I purchased Castrol Edge 5w-40 fully synthetic from Supercheap over the weekend, as it was half price. $34.95 vs $69.88 like it is back to today. I did look at the 5w-30 which is what Castrol recommend for the car however it is only SL rated, whereas the 5w-40 is the newer SN rated. I would much prefer using a SN class oil .

Two things also required at this service to meet log book requirements is spark plugs and CVT fluid. For the CVT, it has to be J4 fluid, so currently that pretty much means Mitsubishi genuine fluid, so is more expensive. I believe Castrol and Gulf Western now make a J4 compliant CVT fluid, but they're harder to get. Penrite is currently only J1.

The other thing required is spark plugs. The recommended spark plug for the car is the NGK DIFR6C11, which no joke, is probably the most expensive plug out there! It's also not the easiest to get either. Even though they state 90,000 km for the spark plugs, NGK claim a longevity of 80,000 to 100,000 miles:
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=29216

It's almost as if Mitsubishi have stated to change the plugs at 90,000 km instead of miles. In any case, as you can see they're US$20 each, probably much more in Australia.

Is the Denso IK20TT a suitable alternative? It appears to be the equivalent of the DIFR6C11 operationally, but it isn't stated as such. It appears the VFK20F is the direct replacement, but like the DIFR6C11 favours longevity. Hardly seems worthwhile using damn expensive plugs which are just damn expensive for the luxury of being a little longer lasting, when they still list the cars as needing new plugs at 90,000 km anyway. This is especially true since cheaper, just as good alternatives cost less and still have a life expectancy greater than the service interval.

[toc]

Go with the NGK FR6EI.
I'm running these - no worries with them.
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9766

http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs-part- ... +113kW4B11

For some reason they used the similar but slightly different plug in the 2011+ model year lancers. FR6EI is recommended below 2011 model year though.. The C in the model is a bit interesting - special design? Anything special about the plug compared to the FR6EI?
I bet if the thread and spark gap was the same most workshops would just swap them in - owner unaware.

http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/produ ... ing-system

Sorry I edited some more in - the link to the FR6EI and the recommended plug look the same except for electrode shaping differences - but if you've got a good spark, it won't matter? 1.1 is a nice fat spark... not the recommended plug for some reason..

[burfadel]

The FR6EI are $12.95 at Supercheap, the DIFR6C11 are very hard to find, but are practically $30 each online. The FR6EI are also only single tip, the DIFR6C11 are double tip electrode.

FR6EI ($12.95 a plug):


DIFR6C11 (~$30 a plug):


I also found it for $70 a plug:
https://zoxoro.com.au/Products/NGK-1312 ... vQod8fkBnw
:S

IK20TT (direct FR6EI alternative, I believe. ~$17 a plug delivered):

Notice the double tip like the DIFR6C11.

According to a cross reference website for spark plugs:
http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com ... K_PN/FR6EI

The direct Denso equivalent is IK20, the IK20TT is just the twin tip higher end version of it. The only alternative for DIFR6C11 listed is the Autolite XP3923. http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com ... N/DIFR6C11

The Autolite plugs are $22.95 for a pack of 2:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Produc ... ack/371694

According to Autolite, the XP3923 is also a direct replacement for the FR6EI and IK20TT.
http://www.autolite.com/Productfinder/H ... arch=fr6ei

So by extension of all information, the DIFR6C11, IK20TT, XP3923, and FR6EI should all be suitable... in theory! However the only twin tip electrode plug besides the recommended DIFR6C11 is the Denso IK20TT. I might spend the extra $15 for the 4 plugs and get the IK20TT over the FR6EI, just thought I'd check what people thought.

What do people think?

[toc]

IK20TT looks OK to me as well.
https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=32760
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=29216

Stick them side by side and click Specs for each, the IK20TT has a smaller electrode to the recommended plug, tapered ground electrode. The IK20TT will need to be regapped for 1.1mm. The IK20TT is the right heat range plug.

It will fit, it will spark and it will work.. I'd use it - but that's me

Related, I wonder what Mitsu would have thought for the double electrodes over the FR6EI.. I don't think there's much different between a 2008 4B11 and a 2011 4B11 in terms of cylinder head, pistons and ignition coils.. The 'alternative' plug recommendation must be from a different spark map?

[burfadel]

If you look at the price of the two you linked, I hardly see the NGK one being worth 2.5 times as much as the Denso.

On the Denso website you linked, if you go here:
https://www.densoproducts.com/Automotiv ... c1351.aspx

Then select say, the 2016 Lancer 2.0 L, it shows the IK20TT is directly useable. That is the first reference I've come across that it is directly suitable! It is also suitable for all the 2.0 L Lancers, with the 2.4 L Lancer's requiring the IK16TT.

I guess I'll give the IK20TT a try, Denso do make good plugs .

Thanks for the link! I thought I had looked there, obviously I missed it.