Okay so, during my eventful day on my Lancer, I decided to see what happens when I disconnect my alarm from the car.
I disconnected the battery and proceeded to remove the harnesses from the alarm module. Got the alarm unit out and reconnected the battery to see if the car turned over. No dice.
It appears even though JB got lazy with connecting the door trigger, they managed to hook it up so I cant just remove the alarm. **Claps**
Second thing, since I had a lot of my interior out while doing this, I thought I would attempt to trace where the door trigger wire was going. I think I have found why my alarm only goes off when I open the drivers door and not any other door.
The lazy dog of an installer decided to tap into the drivers door trigger and not any other doors. So thats the reason why my alarm goes off only when the drivers door is opened and not any other door.
Ive got two things I can do here...
1. Run extra cabling to the other doors and connect it to the door trigger on the alarm.
2. Screw the alarm off completely.
With option 1 i see an inherent issue, if I hook up the door trigger on all other doors from the alarm, this could disable my factory central locking entirely since it refuses to work properly when only the drivers door is connected.
Second thing is, I have no idea why my central locking on the drivers door still refuses to work since the trigger is only tapped onto the drivers door sensor and not completely disconnected.
The only thing that I can think of is that the installer has put a diode somewhere in the door trigger circuit to stop the trigger from the alarm going straight back to the factory central locking and causing an issue there. Would this be feasible?
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Removing Aftermarket Alarm
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Since u have now voided jb's warranty and your insurance....
Remove wire going to drivers door trigger and just tap it to dome light. Dome light comes on when ever a door is opened and will thus trigger the siren.
Door trigger wire has nothing to do with central locking wiring. That would've been done in the drivers kick or behind glovebox at fuse panel
Remove wire going to drivers door trigger and just tap it to dome light. Dome light comes on when ever a door is opened and will thus trigger the siren.
Door trigger wire has nothing to do with central locking wiring. That would've been done in the drivers kick or behind glovebox at fuse panel
As for the immobilizer.
3 pin harness with green wires. Green, green white and green black.
Only 2 will have been used.
Trace them from the python module to which ever circuit has been cut. Remove green wires and re solder the original cut wires together. Most likely the starter circuit so should be found at ignition barrel
3 pin harness with green wires. Green, green white and green black.
Only 2 will have been used.
Trace them from the python module to which ever circuit has been cut. Remove green wires and re solder the original cut wires together. Most likely the starter circuit so should be found at ignition barrel
- tadz0rz
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I see wires going up near the ignition key but I didnt see which colours they were speicificly.
JB would have known I screwed with it anyway since there was that much other wiring around the alarm module, they would of just blamed it on that and tried to wriggle out of it. Pending I can just get the factory central locking to work, ill just find my way around the alarm wiring and remove it myself.
Am I correct in saying that they have disconnected the factory ignition cabling and then run it to the alarm and then to the starter? Therefor all I need to do is remove the cabling between the alarm and ignition then re-connect the factory ignition back together?
JB would have known I screwed with it anyway since there was that much other wiring around the alarm module, they would of just blamed it on that and tried to wriggle out of it. Pending I can just get the factory central locking to work, ill just find my way around the alarm wiring and remove it myself.
Am I correct in saying that they have disconnected the factory ignition cabling and then run it to the alarm and then to the starter? Therefor all I need to do is remove the cabling between the alarm and ignition then re-connect the factory ignition back together?
my guess is they have put the immobilisor on the starter wire or ignition wire.
what they do is cut that wire then one side is soldered to the one of the green wires and the other side is soldered to one of the other 2 green wires. remove all tape and you will see what 2 wires u need to re solder to get the car to start again.
what they do is cut that wire then one side is soldered to the one of the green wires and the other side is soldered to one of the other 2 green wires. remove all tape and you will see what 2 wires u need to re solder to get the car to start again.
- tadz0rz
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Alright, so after a few phone calls and some hair pulling i am back to where I was before.
Decided to see if i could trace some of the wiring, and found that the 7 pin door harness has been connected to what looks like the factory lock and unlock wires behind the kick pannel.
They completely cut the connection and ran it to the alarm insted of tapping into it, which i think is why the factory central locking doesnt work on the drivers door when using the factory key.
Where I see they have gone wrong is that they have tapped into the door trigger on the drivers door instead of all the doors therefore whenever the drivers door is opened and the alarm is locked the alarm will go off. If that makes sense lol.
I decided to bite the bullet and connect the cut cabling from the lock/unlock signal wire on the factory harness and connect it into the alarm arm/dissarm. Pretty much just connected 2 wires into the alarm which were meant to be joined together when the factory central locking was working.
Did this, put the negative terminal back on the battery and go to use the lock/unlock on the factory keys. Nuffin!!, fine, lll try the alarm keys, NUFFIN!!
Okay, ill try to start the car...NUFFFIIIINKKKK!!!!
Stressing out bad as to what happend, disconnected the 2 cables that I had connected and reconnected the negative and then tried to start it and had no igntion at all, dash wasnt lighting up. I thought I had tripped the imoboliser or the starter kill module in the alarm.
After a while I checked all the fuses and found that SOMEHOW i managed to pop the ignition fuse. I dont know how I did it since all I was connecting was the door pin harness, I didnt touch anything on the 12v ignition/constant power side or anthing like that.
The car is now going again after replacing the fuse but Im at my witts end with it now and am going to pick up some black duct tape tomorrow and make it look the way it did when JB installed it for me and call them up and tell them to either replace the unit or remove it because im over it now...
Big massive thanks to Matt (Fitter) Guided me through a lot of what I was doing over the phone, couldnt of done it without you man
Decided to see if i could trace some of the wiring, and found that the 7 pin door harness has been connected to what looks like the factory lock and unlock wires behind the kick pannel.
They completely cut the connection and ran it to the alarm insted of tapping into it, which i think is why the factory central locking doesnt work on the drivers door when using the factory key.
Where I see they have gone wrong is that they have tapped into the door trigger on the drivers door instead of all the doors therefore whenever the drivers door is opened and the alarm is locked the alarm will go off. If that makes sense lol.
I decided to bite the bullet and connect the cut cabling from the lock/unlock signal wire on the factory harness and connect it into the alarm arm/dissarm. Pretty much just connected 2 wires into the alarm which were meant to be joined together when the factory central locking was working.
Did this, put the negative terminal back on the battery and go to use the lock/unlock on the factory keys. Nuffin!!, fine, lll try the alarm keys, NUFFIN!!
Okay, ill try to start the car...NUFFFIIIINKKKK!!!!
Stressing out bad as to what happend, disconnected the 2 cables that I had connected and reconnected the negative and then tried to start it and had no igntion at all, dash wasnt lighting up. I thought I had tripped the imoboliser or the starter kill module in the alarm.
After a while I checked all the fuses and found that SOMEHOW i managed to pop the ignition fuse. I dont know how I did it since all I was connecting was the door pin harness, I didnt touch anything on the 12v ignition/constant power side or anthing like that.
The car is now going again after replacing the fuse but Im at my witts end with it now and am going to pick up some black duct tape tomorrow and make it look the way it did when JB installed it for me and call them up and tell them to either replace the unit or remove it because im over it now...
Big massive thanks to Matt (Fitter) Guided me through a lot of what I was doing over the phone, couldnt of done it without you man
- tadz0rz
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Bringing up an old thread but it needs to be done unfortuntaly
This alarm is doing my head in, after all the above issues were fixed up untill today. For some random reason, i havent done a thing to the car electrical wise in months, the alarm is throwing a curve ball at me
The siren is continously going off, no matter what i do with the remote the alarm continues to go off. Even when i use my key to disable the siren in the engine bay it still continues to go off but it sounds like its dying.
Ive uploaded a video to youtube of what its actually doing.
You can see me press the unlock key, the doors dont unlock, press it again, then they unlock, then i go to the engine bay and re-enable the alarm and all the messed up noises it makes.
These arent the regular alarm going off noises, im worried the siren or the main control unit is fried.
The car still starts fine and everything like that, only thing im worried about is its affect on the battery as my car took a little longer to kick over this afternoon after leaving it parked at the station for 10-12 hours.
im in a massive predicament right now because I did have the reciept for the alarm but now because i was going to take it back orignally (when i started this thread) i didnt put it back with all my other receipts.
Now i cant find the fkn reciept for it. I want this alarm out of my car and a new one fitted or get my money back for it as given me too many troubles. The unit was meant to be professionally installed but its clear somethings gone in the meantime. Hell, they didnt even hook the alarm up to flash the indicators or parkers when the cars locked or unlocked.
What are my options here guys? I uploaded a video to youtube so you can see exactly what its doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFrTAn9LKlo
Please helllpppp!!!
This alarm is doing my head in, after all the above issues were fixed up untill today. For some random reason, i havent done a thing to the car electrical wise in months, the alarm is throwing a curve ball at me
The siren is continously going off, no matter what i do with the remote the alarm continues to go off. Even when i use my key to disable the siren in the engine bay it still continues to go off but it sounds like its dying.
Ive uploaded a video to youtube of what its actually doing.
You can see me press the unlock key, the doors dont unlock, press it again, then they unlock, then i go to the engine bay and re-enable the alarm and all the messed up noises it makes.
These arent the regular alarm going off noises, im worried the siren or the main control unit is fried.
The car still starts fine and everything like that, only thing im worried about is its affect on the battery as my car took a little longer to kick over this afternoon after leaving it parked at the station for 10-12 hours.
im in a massive predicament right now because I did have the reciept for the alarm but now because i was going to take it back orignally (when i started this thread) i didnt put it back with all my other receipts.
Now i cant find the fkn reciept for it. I want this alarm out of my car and a new one fitted or get my money back for it as given me too many troubles. The unit was meant to be professionally installed but its clear somethings gone in the meantime. Hell, they didnt even hook the alarm up to flash the indicators or parkers when the cars locked or unlocked.
What are my options here guys? I uploaded a video to youtube so you can see exactly what its doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFrTAn9LKlo
Please helllpppp!!!
- The X
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Yeah I deleted my post because I was full retard and skimmed your post. haha.
"the quieter you become, the more you are able to hear"
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
- The X
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Is it just me or is there 3 positions on that key or two. The video is jittery so I can't tell. Tried the 3rd position if there is one and if you've not tried it?
"the quieter you become, the more you are able to hear"
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
- The X
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You got a Python alarm system, yes? You know what the model is. Manuals here.... http://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/support/guides.aspx
"the quieter you become, the more you are able to hear"
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
- The X
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Just drive down the street GTA stylez.
Hmmm so at least the immobiliser hasn't kicked in, so it's disarmed if the engine is running. The unit's probably screwed.... don't want to be driving anyway and getting stranded from a moody unit. :\
Hmmm so at least the immobiliser hasn't kicked in, so it's disarmed if the engine is running. The unit's probably screwed.... don't want to be driving anyway and getting stranded from a moody unit. :\
"the quieter you become, the more you are able to hear"
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
More pix @ http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=8779
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