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oil filter

Servicing, Oil Changes, Fluids & Much More.

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billyboy
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Postby billyboy » Mon Dec 28, 2009 7:14 am

SIR-VRX wrote:The Evos sometimes specify a different filter, but the RA specifies the same.


I'm confused... my original oem filter had part MD356000 which I used Ryco Z436 filter, per their cross ref.

I think its what the Evo uses & the RA should be the same?

edit: typo!
Last edited by billyboy on Mon Dec 28, 2009 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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tryg
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Postby tryg » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:47 am

Really?!

Well in thinking about it, maybe both the turbos need more help.... !

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Postby SIR-VRX » Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:49 am

billyboy wrote:
SIR-VRX wrote:The Evos sometimes specify a different filter, but the RA specifies the same.


I'm confused... my original oem filter had part MD356000 wish I used Ryco Z436 filter, per their cross ref.

I think its what the Evo uses & the RA should be the same?


I see your logic in that thinking, and I agree.

However when I questioned Mitsubishi about why the filter they supplied me was different to what was on my car from the factory they said that the one they supplied me does all the Lancers, including Evo. But if they have stock of a different one, sounds like your one, they use that.

So to me that sounded like the Evo uses the different one (if available) else it uses the regular one. As for the RA it should be the same I'd have thought (same engine)

At the end of the day, it's not overly important as the only difference is 20mm in height. Don't know why that is the case, but the taller the filter, the more filter media so the better it filters.

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Postby Ellimist » Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:39 am

436 and 411 difference is height.

you can use the ryco numbers and cross reference on the ryco website actually.

also the new penrite everyday full synthetic oil is actually not badly priced. i think about 39.99 roughly for the 5-40.

the main advantage of penrite oils is that they are made in Australia for Australian conditions. They also tend to have a higher upper limit than most other oils of a similar cold weight. for instance most are 5-30 whereas the penrite is 5-40 meaning it will break down at a higher temperature than the 5-30.

if your feeling really like splashing out on oil though go their sin range.

probably best to stick with the one oil type for the life of the car though.
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Postby SIR-VRX » Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:52 am

Ellimist wrote:436 and 411 difference is height.


20mm to be exact, as I said above your post ;)

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tryg
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Postby tryg » Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:27 am

I change mine every 5K so the size difference is hardly an issue..

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Postby Ellimist » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:37 pm

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tryg
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Postby tryg » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:24 pm

size matters ?! someone may be over-compensating...!

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chris
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Postby chris » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:51 pm

I`ve heard they are hard to remove with a strap or band type tool? have not had a chance to look under the car as yet, they say there`s not much space?

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kinesis
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Postby kinesis » Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:44 am

well mine was an absolute cow to do (just did 7500 oil change)...

ended up getting a friend's multigrip and even then it was a pain...

the shop uses a wrench which goes over the top of the filter rather than gripping the outside... (as seen in the workshop manual)

anyway, I imagine now that I've done it myself, it won't be as tight in the future...

it is a bit tight underneath for space... but its manageable...
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Postby tangoforsyth » Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:41 pm

Well the next size up is a Z456, it has a height of 101mm vs a Z411 with a height of 86mm.

http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue ... /part/z456

It should be noted, that yes it does have a greater media capacity and volume but that in itself brings on it's own pro's and con's. Takes longer to fill and pressurise to supply oil to those much needed parts. Remember most damage is done in the first 15 minutes a car is running till all the parts warm up and expand to there correct tollerances and stop moving about as they shouldn't (imagine a supplier not putting enough packing around those much coverted BLING parts when there sent and recieving them all scratch to S&$T). Long Haul trucks and Taxis don't like to turn there motors off for a reason (anyone wonder why those cars that "had only been driven by a little old lady on sundays" die a smokey death shortly after you buy them and give them a hammering)

All filter media in them by design (as they slowly become clogged by carbon/soot/contaninants) actually become more efficient as they start to block up, at least to the point that no more oil is able to flow through the media and exits unfiltered through the bypass valve (hopefully you have changed it before this point) .

Most filter media has holes down to about the size of 40 to 100 microns (every brand is different and alot of OEM are rebages) when new. I have read that most abrassions on working surfaces are around 5 microns in depth. This is why most heavy duty Deisel motors run a Standard (40 micron full flow ) and a By-pass (5 micron low flow) to scrub the oil. The best idea is to run a Centrafugal oil filter as a By-pass filter (found on on most large Prime Mover trucks and some Landrovers TD5's)

I myself have used a Racor LFS60 (60 micron) on my 1993 Suzki Sierra since it was new and untill I let my brother have the car (that a story for another day.....and not a good one), it ran like a charm with 200K on the clock and bearly used a drop of oil. It is basiclly a remote mountable Stainless Steel mesh filter, housed in 2 halfs of a billet alluminium block that is washable with kerosine. It has a warning light to tell you when it is going into by-pass and can be opened, cleaned and reinstalled in about the same time as it takes for all the used oil to drain from the motor at each service. These are DAMM expensive I might add :shock:

http://www.usdieselparts.com/racor2.cfm

P.S. My 2002 Mirage does 600km a week driving to work (95% freeway running) using stock standard oil filters and runs as good today as when I first got it. Oh yeah it has done 196K and I have done probably 110k in it going too and from work. Last set of tyres lasted 60k :)

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Postby Mizta B » Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:57 pm

Chris I use a Band type filter tool and I dont have any problems
The one I have uses a type of webbing like a seatbelt on a square shaft that you can put a ratchet in the end of and usually grabs quite well
It is tight for room but not impossible :wink:
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Postby SoulX » Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:44 pm

I find it hard with the band type. Ended up getting one of those claw type. It work like a charm.

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tryg
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Postby tryg » Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:59 pm

best way to remove oil filters is with a socket wrench-mounted nted keyed-hat. They come in various sizes and keys. For example; they have 12 or 18 or 24 segments and fit neatly over the end of the oil filter. You then just use your socket wrench to spin it.

You can buy them individually or buy a kit-full.

Especially handy when you have 4 different size oil filters happening under the one roof !!

I think the Lancer is one of the easiest vehicles to change oil...

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Postby SIR-VRX » Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:07 am

Mounting the oil filter where it is and vertical too makes the Lancer by far the best car I've even worked on!

Back when my parents had a Commodore, the filter was right abouve the front crossmember, so not only a pain to get to, the oil spilled out and got all over the crossmember! How stupid!


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