Switches

[Graham]

Hey all,

I'm going to install a switchbox in my car in the near future if I have the time, I currently have one but I will need to modify it by changing all the switch types and stuff.

The main thing that I want it to do is have one single positive wire connecting to the battery which powers all 10 switches and then seperately hook up each of the applications to the switch using that positive wire.

This won't overload and do anything weird will it?

I've thought about it and I don't think the two-pin switches will work

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because if it's turned off it won't have any current going to the other 9 switches, but I haven't confirmed this.

If I try it with a three-pin switch

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The middle switch may be for the positive wire and the top would be out of use and the bottom would have the other wire connected to the application.

I'll probably send that single wire through the firewall connected to the battery and the other wires will be connected behind the glovebox (near fusebox). Negatives can just go onto the metal body

So has anyone tried this yet and would a 3-pin switch work & would it overload anything? any helpful stuff is much appreciated.

[Graham]

Yeah the diagrams made no sense, they're meant to be a picture of a switch :p

I don't have all the applications at the moment but some of them are just neons at this stage (Interior & underbody) - another for the front grille & maybe a glowing emblem in future.

I only have the ones in the front grill installed at the moment, I just have to hook them up.

I drew another (probably even more confusing) diagram of what it may look like.


RED: Battery & main positive wire connecting all 10 switches
BLACK: Individual wiring for each application
DARK BLUE: Switchbox
Blue & Light Blue: Applications (Grill neon & footwell illumunation)


One of the parts that confuses me is where the fuses come in, previously I've just connected it directly to the battery and earthed it onto the chassis and put a switch between the application and the battery.

So rather than have one positive wire providing power to all 10 switches I should use a fuse or fuses with for more than one positive wire?

(Sorry if i sound confusing, it's confusing me a little too!)

[Graham]

Ohh, fire = BAD

Okay cool, thanks

Adding fuses isn't too hard and shouldn't cause too much hassle should it?

Good luck with the exam

[Graham]

Been doing a little bit of research aswell about fuses and stuff.

I'm not sure what sort of amp fuse I need but LED's draw very little which is what most of my applications are so for the time being a 1amp fuse should be enough.

would something like this work if i was to install it between the switchbox and main positive wire going towards the battery?
http://www.oznium.com/atc-fuse-holder

so if it was drawing more than 1amp it would just blow the fuse and it *shouldn't* catch fire

[tadz0rz]

If your going to be running alot of things off the battery, your gunna want some decent gauge wire to get you started. Cant really run it off standard wire.

Not 100%, but maybe some 8 or 12 gauge wire from your battery, with an inline fuse, then a box or whatever you want with fuses to each accerory point.

[Speedie]

Personally I would run some 4 gauge amp wire to a distribution block, I would put a circuit breaker in that wire. Then run your power wire with inline fuse off the block to each of your switched

[Graham]

Just installed my switchbox today!! took 8 hours or so.

It's not currently running anything off it yet (isn't hooked up to power either, but is able to be)

From the battery I have 10-40cm of wire going to a 10Amp fuse then that positive wire going to the switchbox connected to 10 switches, the switches each have an individual wire going to a (third) switchbox behind the glovebox each with 3Amp fuses.
Nothing is going from fusebox to applications yet.

All fuses are ATC fuses & all the wiring is hidden.

I'll slowly start adding everything one by one to the fusebox and test it with the switches to see if it works

One thing I will also do in the near future is place a master switch between the first fuse and switchbox and probably have that next to the ATC button to the right of the steering wheel.

Did I do anything wrong that anyone can spot?

Not really that many pics at the moment, but I can post some up if anyone wants to have a look

[tmr_colt]

Hey mate sounds interesting,

What are you actually looking to run off these switches?

If you're looking at stuff like neon lights etc, then listen to what the other dudes here have recommended to do.

If you're looking at stuff like engine control (on/acc/start/traction control) then I really wouldn't bother. You've got a coded key to deal with (nb: f*ck that) and come resale time for the car you'll have a HEAP of stuff to return to factory, which, most people are in a rush to do & stuff it up anyway.

It can be done, check your wiring diagrams & work it out.. but yeah.. may not be worth the hassle. dedicated track car? definately

[Graham]

Just for random things that I've added to the car such as the neons, yup.

It's all been done now, it should be set up properly, fuses and stuff are all there, so far so good!

[jamez707]

i cant belive i havnt seen this thread befor...and i cant beleive that adrian (sir-vrx) hasnt had a say in here.....the hole fuse size wire size thing is called discrimination.....basically the wire you use from the switch to the neon needs to be able to carry the amount of current the neon draws and the fuse you need to use needs to be less than the max current rating of the wire to protect it (its basikly the same as a circuit breaker in your house). the main power cable needs to be able to carry the total current of all 10 devices that is why it needs to be a much larger gauge wire and there for a larger fuse.


if you do get any problems pm me and i will see if i can help

bringing work to home
JameZ

[SIR-VRX]

i have not seen this thread before either Jamez!

Any questions, I'm sure Jamez and I can help answer them! 9We're both sparkies lol)

[Blakey]

10 amp fuse to a 10 switch block depending on what you are putting on those switches, that fuse will blow very easily.

i would really suggest something like 6mm cable to a main switch/circuitbreaker, then from there put a separate cable for each of the switches. just make sure each switch has it own fuse. on the 4mm cable you can put like 40A mainbreaker then from there have bladefuses of 5, 10 15 and 10 amp max total you can have is 40amp over all of your fuses or you will just blow your bigger fuse/ or put a bigger fuse in like 60 or something, just make like every 2 switches on the same fuse.