Looking at a 2013 Ralliart Lancer

[schoolofmonkey]

For SST, only use transmax dual, ford or OEM fluid. Someone used penrite and the box died soon afterwards. As for interval, depends how you drive the car. Ford recommends 60K for the focus and Mondeo. I give the car a squirt once a week and I don’t get stuck in stop start so I did mine at 45K with transmax dual. If DIY, get transmax dual from sparesbox and filter from ford.

Didn't do the internal filter as it is too hard for me.

BTW looks like your battery cover is missing, which is no big deal. My dealer once lost my battery cover and fusible link cover (the red cover on the +ve terminal) after a warranty job. I didn’t notice it for 6 months. Luckily, they replace it after I chased the service advisor.

Heck I didn't notice the battery cover, it was at the dealer like that, so I'd so it's long gone.
The last service on the car was done in July 2019, that service the car had 52689km's, when I drove it home a good 130km's, it has 52977km's si that's only 288km's since the last service, so I'd say the car sat around the car yard for a while

I'm also getting the bore plug done, I'm still tossing up just asking them to do the shift fork upgrade, it is another $3000, but I do have the money there right now, it'd be better to do it now rather than if it does fall out, they feel I shouldn't really need to if I'm not having any issues.

I'm not a lead foot driver, not to say I didn't give it a boot getting on the highway to test out the paddle shift, but that was twice, usually I'm in normal mode driving normally unless I need to overtake or pull out quickly.
Just wanted a car with the extra power if/when I need it, plus it's cheaper to register because it's seen as a 4cyl car, nearly 1/2 the cost of a 6cyl.
I learnt that flat flooring the car in normal turns off the automatic, that took me by surprise when it hit 5,000rpm without shifting..

At the end of the day it's going to be well looked after and not driven hard all the time, maybe here and there when I take someone for a first drive but other than that it'll be normal driving.

[schoolofmonkey]

Oh I should mention I do have a 5000km or 3 month Statutory warranty, so it may be worth holding off on the shift fork, because that warranty should cover the gear box if it does fall off.

[bumblebee]

Speaking of Warranty have you let Mitsubishi know your now the owner incase of recalls?

Give them your vin
https://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/cu ... contact-us

[schoolofmonkey]

Speaking of Warranty have you let Mitsubishi know your now the owner incase of recalls?

Give them your vin
https://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/cu ... contact-us

Done.
I saw the forms in the back of the service manual but wasn't sure I needed to send them in due to the car's age.

All booked in for Monday, pickup Tuesday, this is everything they'll be doing as well as the billet bore, will sit on the shift fork until the Statutory warranty is up.

[cooyarpjm]

Not sure which SAT NAV unit is in the 2013 Ralliart if it's DVD based mapping then you can get the map updates from TOMTOM here

https://navshop.com.au/collections/mitsubishi

if you have an SD Card based mapping then you can only get the map updates from Mitsubishi.

Looking at the pics on Redbook i'm guessing it's the latter SD based unit.

[schoolofmonkey]

Not sure which SAT NAV unit is in the 2013 Ralliart if it's DVD based mapping then you can get the map updates from TOMTOM here

https://navshop.com.au/collections/mitsubishi

if you have an SD Card based mapping then you can only get the map updates from Mitsubishi.

Looking at the pics on Redbook i'm guessing it's the latter SD based unit.

Spot on, it's the SD Card model, it's got the latest update from Mitsubishi, no biggy because I can always use WAZE on my phone anyway.
So fair it's found every address I've added as well as my home address.
Thanks for the help

On another note I've started to drive in normal manual around town, taking the kids to school etc, it's a lot smoother than normal auto which is very indecisive with jerky gear shifts.
When in manual I manually change down to 3rd when stopping and let the it do the rest as I stop, I'm guessing from all the reading I've down is probably the best way to extend the life of the SST.

[schoolofmonkey]

Well all the car is done, SST Service, relteach, billet bore, S-Sport update, full car service and new fuel relays.
Just got to say that S-Sport mode is impressive, I got actual wheel spin changing from 1st to 2nd.

The guys picked up something I missed, the bloody car has 4 different branded tyres, told me that can really mess up the AWD system.
Going to get 4 new Michelin tyres as well as a wheel alignment today.

Oh one more thing, anyone know where to get a battery cover in Australia, mine (like it was pointed out before) is missing, it's just got the red terminal cover.

[Nat]

Try evolution racing spares on Facebook, would say they will have one for sure.

[schoolofmonkey]

Try evolution racing spares on Facebook, would say they will have one for sure.

Thanks for that, I flicked them a message.

[lancerdarryl]

Try OEM for the battery cover. They weren’t all that expensive from memory

[schoolofmonkey]

Try OEM for the battery cover. They weren’t all that expensive from memory

I messaged Evolution Racing Spares, they said they had one in stock, I asked them how much including shipping to QLD, they read the message and never answered, that was about 5 hours ago now so I guess I need to keep looking.

On a lighter note, man I love driving in Super Sport mode, it feels like a completely different car, guess you could say it feels tight, like "you want the next gear, bamm here is is", unlike the slight smooth delay from the other modes.
Think it might be my daily mode I use unless I'm highway driving.

[bumblebee]

Findapart.com.au

Or give evolution racing spares a call

[schoolofmonkey]

Findapart.com.au

Or give evolution racing spares a call

Waiting for a call back now.

Anyway I pulled the trigger on the stainless steel upper intercooler pip and a GFB T9133 - MACH 2 BOV.
I'll be reusing the L pipe from the intercooler but swapping the original crap hosing for a better quality silicon one.

Intercooler pipe:
https://www.akracing.com.au/product/tun ... e=Ralliart

First mods in the list of many, though I thought I was going to keep it stock, now that I've been driving the car more the modding bug bit, so over the next twelve months I will be upgrading the car with the final upgrade being a EVO X turbo plus tune.
The first will the a full transmission upgrade in preparation for that, higher quality clutches for the extra power plus a cooler, that will be the most expensive thing to do out of the whole upgrade.

I figure the last thing I should put on is the turbo and exhaust, then do the ECU tune.

Sound about right?

[bumblebee]

I dunno why everyone has this idea stuck in their head that bigger turbo makes more power
The bigger you go the longer it takes to spool up and more torque you lose down low
This is why a few manufacturer have been using bi-turbo so the smaller turbo does low rpm. Have a look at Porsche and Mercedes.
Makes zero difference if it is a lancer or am Evo , the ecu factory tune has been crippled from the factory to deliberately reduce power. All EFI vehicles from day dot have had this , be it car, truck , motorcycle.
Have a chat to a decent exhaust shop, put a decent full exhaust system on it and a decent ecu tune before even thinking about a bigger turbo.
Fix the basic stuff first and you will be pleasantly rewarded for your efforts.
All the nice shiny aluminium under the bonnet looks great..
Until the bonnet it closed and it's now cooking away.
Keep it wrapped or ceramic coated and get more power. Zero difference if it NA or turbo. Heat under the bonnet is a killer of power.
Even after you shove a bigger turbo at it, you still have the stock cams installed.
Drop a decent set of cams in it and pick up some extra ponies along the way as well

Out of interest what fuel are you shoving down its neck?
Is it E85?
More power to be gained there as well before you think about swapping out the turbo

[schoolofmonkey]

I dunno why everyone has this idea stuck in their head that bigger turbo makes more power
The bigger you go the longer it takes to spool up and more torque you lose down low
This is why a few manufacturer have been using bi-turbo so the smaller turbo does low rpm. Have a look at Porsche and Mercedes.
Makes zero difference if it is a lancer or am Evo , the ecu factory tune has been crippled from the factory to deliberately reduce power. All EFI vehicles from day dot have had this , be it car, truck , motorcycle.
Have a chat to a decent exhaust shop, put a decent full exhaust system on it and a decent ecu tune before even thinking about a bigger turbo.
Fix the basic stuff first and you will be pleasantly rewarded for your efforts.

Out of interest what fuel are you shoving down its neck?
Is it E85?
More power to be gained there as well before you think about swapping out the turbo

Running 98 Premium fuel.

That's why I'm here, to get advice from people who owns there's cars, my Turbo experience is limited to a degree to older cars.
First one I had was the VL Turbo can in 99 in Sydney, but I had a group of mates who knew what they were doing and taught me some, one was whacking a bigger turbo on that car, HK system if I believe, it help that it was using a Skyline engine, things were pretty straight forward, ended up being used as a track car.
Second was a TX 5 Turbo, that was left stock as a daily driver.
3rd was a Imported Toyota Starlet Turbo, again left stock, it didn't need much tuning it was light and just quick, good for city driving.
When I moved out of Sydney I sold them bought the Tommy, which again was quick from stock, so I didn't do anything with that either.

So it's the first time I've had something as "advanced" as the Ralliart, if I can increase the power more with a few simple mods and a good tune I''ll happily do that, like I only have online reading, all the Sydney mates from back then have moved on (I'm 42 btw), so I don't have many to talk to, AK have been brilliant with helping as well.

But this is why I was doing things in steps, I understand the finicky side of the SST now, I've completely relearned how to drive using it, so I first though my main focus was solidifying the that first with better clutches, of course the shift fork at the same time, leaving the idea of the bigger Turbo last.
If it turns out I didn't need it, it wouldn't be money wasted by putting one on early.

So you think doing all the other littler mods would be better first including the exhaust, I was thinking this order.
Transmission upgrade (Clutches, shift fork, heated sump)
Transmission Cooler
Evo X intercooler along with the lower intercooler pipe as the upper will already be done.
Exhaust and Tune
Turbo (if needed)

I'd thought about E85, been watching the MCM guys who swear by it, but I'm yet to see a servo anywhere near me selling it, seems Marty had the same problem when he bought his Evo from around here (Gold Coast).
I guess there's always jerry cans in the garage.

I do thank you bumblebee, you have been very helpful.