Wanted to buy MMCS version 1

[Ozyvoll]

Hi guys and girls. Wondering if anyone has a old working MMCS version 1 unit they would like to sell ?

[benyamin]

Just to clarify, you're after a A-01 model only...?

[Ozyvoll]

As a noob lancer owner I’m not sure if other models would be compatible with the 08 lancer I bought the son Ben

[Ozyvoll]

Just to clarify, you're after a A-01 model only...?

I believe that’s the version we have which isn’t allowing access to the menus because of faulty touchscreen and unsure if other models are compatible mate

[Mooman]

Have you though about getting it repaired?

Random Google search found this:

http://www.electronicrepairs.com.au/index.php/repairs/products/item/mitsubishi-mmcs

I don't know anything about this company, have never used them and not endorsing them but as you can see there may be options for getting the screen fixed.

[benyamin]

I have an A-02 unit in my MY09 VRX. It's touch calibration is dodgy at the best of times. So much so, that I haven't yet been able to get into the service menu. I also don't know if it is the original unit. There is some stuff that doesn't seem to work, e.g. Variable & Rain Sensitive wiper control (although this could be something else). The SAT NAV is ok, but expensive to keep updated and doesn't include traffic, speed cameras, etc. and voice control is a little long-winded in execution. Bluetooth phone is rudimentary and not voice operable. They do play DVDs and CDs, but audio sources are limited with no default USB (apparently some models had a USB box in the glovebox), some very early iPod stuff (some iPhones work too) but require a special cable (with a 9-pin mini-DIN or similar connector and sometimes a spliced power connection so it doesn't go flat), and no Bluetooth streaming (although can add a Bluetooth to RCA converter)...

tbh, my long-term plan is to "upgrade" to an Android head unit and write a custom app for the ETACS and other ECU controls (which is probably a lot of work). In fact, I might even do the "upgrade" and set my preferences using ETACS Decoder (although I do hate the bundled Malware) and leave it at that...

If I had to make a recommendation, I'd probably say to do the same. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Also, you may want to check out Irving's (ofey) Definitive Guide.

[Ozyvoll]

Hi Mooman,
Thanks for looking for me. I have spoken to those guys in Brisbane a week or so ago and they seem pretty legit. They can replace the touchscreen unit but with return shipping it comes to about $500. There is no one else in Australia that I’ve found that does MMCS units. We are based in Sydney so before I commented to the repair I was hoping maybe a member had changed head decks over and might have a spare one lying around and would like to make a few $$$ for it.

[Ozyvoll]

Hey Ben,
We can’t get touchscreen past the initial startup screen as the accept icon won’t respond to touch so we can manually tune radio and manual volume access only. Very frustrating as I bought the model with the Rockford Fosgate setup so the son could boom boom shake the room lol. It’s his car to drive. The first week the accept icon actually worked, but on the bottom left hand side the settings icon for audio controls wouldn’t respond. A new battery was fitted to car and then after that the MMCS system rebooted from CD and we can’t access any ice bs

[benyamin]

Yeah right, Ozyvoll. I think I remember seeing the relevant post. Sorry I wasn't able to respond at the time. Not being able to hit the Accept "button" must be a real bugg3r..!

I should mention my short-term plan is probably to disassemble and then clean the touch digitiser connectors with isopropyl alcohol before reassembling and testing. My touch problem seems to be temperature dependent, and I'll have moments where it seems to work fine... I did see a new digitiser on e-bay for $125 (from China), but I also read somewhere that the digitiser cannot be separated from the LCD panel, so I don't know if that is a workable solution (I haven't personally verified that claim). The issue really is whether the root cause is confined to the digitiser and relevant connectors or whether the problem extends into the control circuitry on the main board.

You could try something similar to my short term plans, but as it stands I just don't know enough to suggest how to repair it, and like I said above, I'm not sure it's really worth the investment to keep the car stock. That being said, I could probably take a look at mine one night later this week and post back here what I find. I have an electronics engineering and manufacturing background, so there's a chance I could work out what's going on...

[Mooman]

Outside of ebay or gumtree you could try a local mitsubishi wrecker.

Don't know if NSW has diy wreckers but if so they are a great way to learn how the car goes together with no risk.

[benyamin]

If you do use a wrecker, you might want to make sure there won't be any hassles returning it if the unit is "not fit for purpose"... YMMV

[Ozyvoll]

Thanks Ben and Moo. Actually late the other night when it was cool the son said that he actually got into the menu but the next morning it was not letting him again and hasn’t since. We do have a very big self serve wreckers close by and probably 100 others within a 20k radius. I will ring around tomorrow and see if I have any luck Moo. Also Ben I would be very interested if you get a chance to clean the sensor and it brings any luck. I’m not as technical as you but I have built a few PCs in the past and might be able to follow your lead. Thanks again for your support and thoughts on this pesky problem I’m having

[Mooman]

Interesting that it would work when cold, maybe the screen is warping slightly.

You could try hit it with freezing spray like this:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/freezing-spray-can/p/NA1000

You can get it at most electronics stores as it's used to find heat related faults in electronics.

If you can't find that you can also use circuit board or contact cleaner which you can get from auto shops like Supercheap, Autobarn, etc. or even hardware stores like Bunnings. Due to the physics of the expansion of gas it will also cool so you can see if there is a heat problem.

[benyamin]

The effect of temperature could be several things, from de-lamination of the digitizer panel or cable (presuming it is a flexible PCB ribbon type), to misalignment or corrosion of the digitizer cable connector(s), or it could be a general overheating of the digitizer circuitry (the units have a fan which likely needs maintenance). Or it could be a combination of all or some of these items or something else...

I've really only used freeze spray to check for dry solder joints on PCBs, thermal cut-offs (to reset them during testing) and to free up seized bolts or other interference (pressed) fittings. I'm not sure how an LCD or digitizer would hold up to a quick freeze. It would depend on the thermal ratings, but most parts are not designed to operate below 0℃ or change temperature quickly (ΔT is typically low)...

Will post what I find when I tear mine down and clean it up...

[Quismiff]

I'm not sure how an LCD or digitizer would hold up to a quick freeze. It would depend on the thermal ratings, but most parts are not designed to operate below 0℃ or change temperature quickly (ΔT is typically low)...

Will post what I find when I tear mine down and clean it up...

I put my S4 active in the freezer on a hot day once and forgot about it, pulled it out about an hour later, and had to let the battery warm up more than anything else. LCD and SUPERAMOLED panels are pretty forgiving, it would be the cycling of temperature. Or cars in Canada wouldn't be able to have LCDs in them. They have plug in block warmers in some regions... sorry to go OT...