Which jumper leads should I buy for my lancer?

[lancer-noob]

Hello,

I have a MY16 Lancer ES sport CF and 1990 nissan pintara u12 trx. I am using the lancer as my daily car and I sometimes drive the old Nissan for very short distance or move around the house. Sometimes, that old car doesn't start so I am thinking to buy a jumper lead to jump start that car using the lancer. A friend of mine warned me that if I don't have the compatible cable or something, it might hurt my lancer's computer or electric system. So, I am seeking an advice from you guys.

I found many jumper leads http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/store/ ... ViewsTotal in SuperCheap store. I am thinking to get "SCA 12V Jumper Leads – 400Amp 3m" with $40.

Is it safe for me to use it in my lancer? If not, please suggest me the one that is compatible with my car. Thanks.

[aspir3]

As your friend said its not recommended to jump start with modern cars because of all the computers.
Much better to buy a trickle charger or solar panel. When my Aspire didn't get driven regularly it killed the battery. I fitted a small solar panel and solar controller to keep the battery full but not over charged.

[lancerdarryl]

Get a set of leads with the surge protector in them (anti-zap).This will eliminate any problems with hooking them up.
The Matson ones for $40.79 look OK.

[burfadel]

The problem with those with the anti-spike circuitry, particularly those with the displays etc, is that you have to keep them in pristine condition always. No throwing them around etc. You don't want it sitting the back of the car vibrating and moving around only to find a year later when you might need it that you've somehow damaged it. Certainly wouldn't go for a cheaper set of these, the cost probably went into the circuitry and they've used lower quality leads. I can imagine this is the case with the $40 400 Amp Matson one. Even the original price of $50.99 is very cheap for what it supposedly is.

You should at the very least get one with a spike guard/surge protector or equivalent. These aren't the little circuitry boxes, they are those extra wires you see on some leads. I'd go for at least 400 Amp cable. I've noticed that also in some brands the apparent quality seems to vary, and it is reflective in the price.

For example:
Powerwize 400 amp cable $39.99: https://www.autobarn.com.au/battery-lin ... rd-sb400sg
Powerwize 500 amp cable $89.99: https://www.autobarn.com.au/powerwize-j ... pike-guard

Huge difference in price, and is much more than just the amp difference. the 400 amp cable looks crap, the 500 amp cable looks decent quality Of course it's not a good indication of how good something is, but I'd much prefer the 500 amp version myself. It's not something you want to cheap out on due to the risk involved.

Now the important thing is to have the surge protected side on the right size(donor/receiver). Also vitally important you follow the correct procedure:

1. Connect positive to battery (donor)
2. Connect positive to battery (receiver)
3. Connect negative to battery (donor)
4. Connect negative to a clean earthing point on the receiver car (NOT to the battery)
5. Start donor car
6. Let the donor car run for a few minutes. DO NOT start the receiver car straight away
7. After a few minutes start the receiver car
8. Disconnect leads in reverse.

There are times when you need a different procedure to the above, this mainly involves some older vehicles. The reason for this is that they are positively earthed, not negatively earthed like most cars. Basically just avoid old cars for this and you should be fine. Out of the ones covered I'd go for the 500 Amp Powerwize one from Autobarn. The 400 Amp SCA one looks a bit cheap (and cost wise it is as well). The 750 Amp leads look much better quality but are much more expensive and probably a bit long (3.5 m).

Honestly, if you have an Autopro or an Autopro related business nearby, get the cables from there. Autopro have been around a long time, and have really been pressured by Supercheap Auto. They sell quality stuff though, and are often cheaper than Supercheap Auto. The people working there are knowledgeable though, for the most part they aren't some 17 year old high school kid that knows how to replace an air filter and therefore is a car expert.

They do have a cross spectrum in terms of quality, but they don't sell crap. If you look for leads there you should find a decent quality set. Of course this doesn't always mean they'll always have what you are looking for.

[Lancer1993]

Before selling off my old Lancer coupe I had the same issue, moving it ever few weeks or so to maw the lawn and the battery was dying slowly. Used my CJ to jump it a few times with anti zap leads I got years ago. Also trickle charged it a few times before that stopping being effective. I eventually sold the old girl when I realized I didn't have the time or money to fix it and get it back on the road.

BTW not had to use the jumper leads on my CJ yet and didn't even bother taking them on the last interstate trip, that is what road side assistance is for! But I do know when using any leads follow the instructions and you shouldn't have an issue with them.

[burfadel]

Here's a case and point that it is 'safe' to do on a Lancer, as both a donor and receiver car.

When Merlin was in Adelaide early this year for the tune, I was about to leave after the tune (I hang around for a little while), and one of the members who was about to have a tune ended up with a flat battery. Merlin jump started his car with my car as the donor, using my leads (with anti-zap). No issues. He did the procedure I outlined above, which I was already aware of. The other thing to consider is to make sure that the cars are not touching each other!

In any case though, start the donor car first for a few minutes, then start the receiver car. Do not try to start the receiver car straight away.

[yatza]

ill just add to you burfadel,

if you dont know what the condition of the battery you are jumping to is like, make sure your car is running before hooking up.
there have been a few times i have had to jump vehicles at work and the battery is so flat i nearly couldn't get my own vehicle started because of how many amps it was trying to draw.

[Mooman]

Some general advice another thing to consider is the battery's rating, CCA (Cold crank amperage).

If the rating of the battery is too low for the car you are trying to jump start it will never work (had this experience trying to start a Falcon with a Barina).

Another option could be a stand alone jump start unit, that way no need for a second car, but cost will be higher.

[lancer-noob]

Thanks a lot, guys!

I will look at Powerwize. There is no autopro store near my place but I will look at their online store.

If it's possible, I would like to get something that I don't need to use my new car.

I did a quick search on the solar charger and found a few solar charger in cheap price. What do I need to look for if I want to buy? CCA, Watt and AMP? Do you connect your solar charger directly to the battery? The cigarette lighter socket might be disconnected when the ignition is switched off.

I also looked at the standalone jump start unit but the cost is high. I do have the battery charger. It took around 16 hours to recharge the flat battery. I want something faster to jump start the car so I can move my old car to let my new car out of the driveway.

[aspir3]

Easy just to connect straight to the battery

[Lancer1993]

Some say you should turn off the dona car before connecting, for the most part I've never done this. I did for my CJ when I used it once to jump the old car. Regardless of the instructions I think the most important thing is connecting the leads in the right order. Also I have noticed depending when you're jumping you may need to rev the dona car, doesn't seem logical but it does help.

Maybe the best investment if you're trying to jump old cars often or want extra security is get one of the new jump starter kits, the battery is tiny when compared to the one in your car, maybe the size of an external HDD for your computer. Many you can charge then leave in your boot for 6-12 months before a recharge is needed, often just using the cars own power. Cost varies but some are around $250 in stores like Battery world, might be more.

As for new batteries I'm hoping to get an Optima one when I need something new, not cheap but oh so good!
http://www.batteryworld.com.au/Products ... ow-Battery

[janie66]

As your friend said its not recommended to jump start with modern cars because of all the computers.
Much better to buy a trickle charger or solar panel. When my Aspire didn't get driven regularly it killed the battery. I fitted a small solar panel and the best Solar Panel Cleaners to keep the battery full but not over charged.

Hello,
There’s no worse feeling than sticking the key in the ignition only to discover you have a dead battery. Like anything on your vehicle, batteries eventually run down. And, when you find yourself with a dead battery, it’s easier if you know how to revive it. You can use standard jumper cables (where you connect to another car), or you can use an auto jump starter (you connect to a battery-powered machine).

[sarusa]

Only time my battery has run flat or shown signs of a problem, has been after 2 years or more, maybe 4years,
Down to Autobahn and have a new one installed or contact RACV battery service and get one installed, all fixed!!

One time only battery died while out! Guess what? I was parked at Autobahn and car would not turn over!!!!! Magic.

[Lancer1993]

Only place better would be outside a Mitsy dealer!

No wait, they'd charge a fortune for their battery and parts LOL

[sarusa]

That car wasn't a Mitsubishi lol.