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Written off or not?

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Written off?

Yes
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No
12
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Total votes: 12

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aspir3
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Postby aspir3 » Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:16 pm

I hope for you it is a write off too.

I just feel sad for the next owner if it is repaired and sold off.

ezzo
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Postby ezzo » Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:33 pm

aspir3 wrote:I hope for you it is a write off too. I just feel sad for the next owner if it is repaired and sold off.


the crash is that bad eh?

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Alixxandar
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Postby Alixxandar » Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:44 pm

Rear end damage like that looks better than it really is. If you can get any shots from behind the rear bumper everyone will see the buckled read end and exhaust (muffler and/or hangers) no doubt the inside of your boot is crippled along with rear quaters, lights and even your suspension could be affected
Image

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Tac89
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Postby Tac89 » Tue Oct 11, 2011 12:06 am

I was rear ended in my previous car and the damage didnt look no where near as bad as that, but it got written off. Because all around the spare tyre was crumpled right back. But having said that my car was only worth about 5-6k.

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Corzza2
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Postby Corzza2 » Tue Oct 11, 2011 10:50 am

ezzo wrote:And this is her car: [img:465a664d8d]http://www.clubcj.net/cached_images/1318234364.jpg[/img:465a664d8d]


He did come off 2nd best for sure!
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race5l
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Postby race5l » Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:34 am

Most likely the car is not written off. Plastic bumpers have a tendency to want to try and rebound to their original shape, so when you look at a bumper like that, expect it to have been pushed in twice the distance. I had a worse hit than that in a VE SS ute (1month old) and the rear quarters had enough pressure on them to warp the panel behind the doors. The damage bill was $11,000 but was revised to $8500 when upon cutting off and replacing the rear structural rails, the quarters lost the stress forced upon them and went back into a dead straight panel again.
The cost is mostly in the hours to remove welded panels, boot floor, etc etc and remove the rear end items for access to these. Then the paint needs to be blended into nearby unaffected panels so a slight colour mismatch is not picked up. White can be the worst solid or standard metallic colour for matching. Mitsubishi paint is also paper thin in most cases, so the blend also hides the thickness variance..

Your rear quarter looks ok, so you are looking at having your boot, rear beaver, boot floor, bumper, rear muffler, lights, all associated trim replaced. If the market value is about $14,000 for an ES then the insurance company may approve works up to $10,000. The insurance company always allows a buffer just incase the quote goes over or there are extra expenses that could be avoided with a payout, like car hire.
I was lucky with my ute as it was bought during the panic period of the financial crisis cheap, and the new owner was made aware of the damage repair, so I only lost about $3,000 off what I paid 2mths later with 10,000km on the clock and a few trips to the drag strip. His dad owned a panel shop, so they cut back the half of the car that wasn't resprayed and did it as well to get a better than factory finish.

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Postby ezzo » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:08 pm

Hey guys, the repair costs are out and they total to ~$6000. My car was fixed in less two weeks and I just got my car back.

@race5l, you were spot on the parts that needed to be repaired/replaced.

I have a question for you guys.
The repair shop is quoted to have replaced the "tail pipe & muffler" and "exhaust intermediate section, inc cat convertor". While the tail pipe and muffler looks brand new, the rest of the exhaust looks it how it was before the crash (dirty). To add to that, the whole exhaust looks to be hanging lower than it should be (like after the crash). It is the "lowest" part of the car by far, 2-3cm lower than the undercarriage. And the shop denied there is any cover for the muffler which I'm pretty d*mn sure there is.

Dodgy job?

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aspir3
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Postby aspir3 » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:14 pm

Often insurance companies do not agree to all the damage to be repaired to save costs. That is why I have car insurance that i can take my car to my repairer where I know it will all be fixed properly.

I would not have picked the car up until i was happy with the repairs.

Did you see the car during the repairs. If not i hope it was fixed properly under the new shiny paint.

The exhaust should sit in the tunnel of the car not below it. It should run parallel to the ground too and not lower in the middle.

Show us some pictures so we can see.

I would contact insurance immediately and question the quality of the repairs.

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Postby ezzo » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:28 pm

Ah, I see. Thanks for the advise. I will make sure it is done properly before collecting the car.

I have three photos, starting from the front to the back.

Image

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Postby ezzo » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:28 pm

Image

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Postby ezzo » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:29 pm

Image

ezzo
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Postby ezzo » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:47 pm

Btw, I was did not go down to the shop when the repairs was done.

I have just spoken to my insurance and they reckon its dodgy too. Lol.

Thanks for your advice!

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race5l
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Postby race5l » Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:53 am

Di they quote it as a part bought or R&R (remove and replace, or take off for repair and put back on)? That is too low. They could of just bent the hangars enough to get it higher and hide the non replacement if not in the parts list.. I got an aftermarket exhaust to replace mine lol as it was a similar price.

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Postby ezzo » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:08 am

It is under "New Parts" by the repairer and costs $1000.
I wasn't expected all these at all as it was handled by AAMI with lifetime guarantee on repairs.. you never know..


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