Coolant refill - what to use?

[tryg]

you can get some good hand-pump style kits for about $60

they reduce it to a true-one man operation... I get less agitation in the fluid, with the smooth draw of vacuum. There is hardly any bubbles and you can leave it on vacuum to attend the fill-up....

I have a pump type one, made by Sealey, I can lend it out if required... Or we can just have a brake bleed day in my garage here in Toowoomba.

[SIR-VRX]

Brake Bleed DIY Day

sounds like a plan! I only just replaced mine so won't need it for a little while yet

[tryg]

Fair enough... we can do it anytime. The reason I have these tools is when I raced, the bike needed new fluid prior to each race. And new pads. The pads were easy, as they are exposed, but the fluid replacement had to be quick.

So, hence the reason to have such elaborate tools...

[SIR-VRX]

yeah if you do it regularly enough to justify the expense in fancy tools, why not I say... But for once in a blue moon like me kinda a waste

[tryg]

Hence 'Tryg's tool library' is now open...

[aznlancer08]

I did an oil chance the other day and realised that the coolant level is at 1/3. Hence did a search in this forum and it appears that it is not only me that is experiecing the same issue with the CJ.

The thing is, for my 45,000km service the dealer (who did the cooland flush and refill) used 3L of the geniune coolant and that was only 6 months ago.

now i think the dealership may not have even done the flush and refill at all.

nevertheless, i'm going to get some genuine coolant on saturday and top my CJ up.

[ofey]

Do you really need genuine coolant? How does a genuine coolant help? Are there any issues with fakes in coolants?

I've been keeping mine topped up using nulon's ready made stuff.

[exaltd]

Ok. Time to chime in on my own subject now that I've learnt so much more

Yes, generic stuff will do the job - however, genuine stuff generally lasts less but has been designed specifically for that particular radiator. All the rust inhibitors and things are completely neutral to the radiator, as compared to generics which could be a bit too strong for the radiator, hence supposed longer lifespan.

In terms of boiling point and freezing point, all coolants have practically the same BP/FP. Their ratios are also the same. The only difference is how long they last, and the additives used.

And Tony, I have the equipment now to test whether the coolant was changed. Since you are in Melbourne, perhaps we meet up some time and I can test it for you? Shouldn't take long.

[DJBOOBY]

Yes, generic stuff will do the job - however, genuine stuff generally lasts less but has been designed specifically for that particular radiator. All the rust inhibitors and things are completely neutral to the radiator, as compared to generics which could be a bit too strong for the radiator, hence supposed longer lifespan.

Im aware that the earlie holden v6 had a problem wear some types of antifreeze eat the welsh plug in the heads.

[exaltd]

Yes. Well, that's why people recommend genuine stuff. But our Lancers are quite strong, any coolant like Tectaloy or Nulon shouldn't have a problem.

I will stick with genuine coolant for now. Will try Tectaloy 100 Plus and Nulon Long Life later.

[smithsy]

Ok. Time to chime in on my own subject now that I've learnt so much more

Yes, generic stuff will do the job - however, genuine stuff generally lasts less but has been designed specifically for that particular radiator. All the rust inhibitors and things are completely neutral to the radiator, as compared to generics which could be a bit too strong for the radiator, hence supposed longer lifespan.
.

I would be more worried about electrochemical corrosion in the alloy block (including water pump) than your radiator.

According to Mitsu you should only use their OEM DIAQUEEN coolant but in reality I believe a decent coolant (such as Nulon) should be more than adequate if manufacturers such as Holden and Ford use and recommend it.

[exaltd]

hehehehe, should have clarified myself better I did mean to say the radiator and all associated parts Thanks for bringing it up.

[exaltd]

Right just an update from Mitsubishi parts department

Mitsubishi has officially phased out the green concentrate. They are also starting to phase out very slowly the premix green coolant.

Mitsubishi has developed a 8 year / 150,000km (I think) blue coloured coolant that will start appearing in lots of MY11 cars. They will eventually offer this to their customers as well, as part of a complete flush of the radiator system - as this is INCOMPATIBLE with the current 2 year/45,000km green coolant.

Just thought you all might like to know.

[dannyboi]

Just popped the bonnet open to check fluid levels, and it looks like the coolant has dropped about 10% (of the height between max and min).

I noticed that my MY10 came with the blue coolant, so I guess the dealer phased out the green coolant before then.