ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Hey guys and gals.

My car is due for its periodic 15000km service, and from what ive learnt the products that mitsubishi use are 'inferior' and there are better products out there better suited to my engine.

My first question is....

I want to supply my own oil, Which one to get?
My car is just used like a car, it gets given a squirt every now and then so i want something that is durable (if thats the right word) and long lasting. What are your recomendations.

I want to supply my own oil filter, which one to get?
Virtually same as above, something that can filtrate the oil...good? lol. Car is just general use and the odd squirt here and there. Got told by autobarn that "DRiFT" oil filters are the best ones avaliable...NOT! Which one should i get?

IF i want to supply my own coolant, which one to get?
Ive noticed that my coolant is pretty low at the moment, its about 2cm above the low mark. Should this be something to worry about? And, just for future reference, which coolant should i get just so i can top it up myself when needed.

Manual Transmission fluid, Should i provide my own? Recomendations?Not to sure on this on if i should supply my own manual transmission fluid, i like to give the car a squirt now and then and i just wanna make sure the tranny is well lubricated (i know have a laugh )

Brake fluid, I dont think this is low, i can check, but if it is, should i supply my own?

Im getting my car lowered soon, should i wait to get the car lowered before i get it serviced
As the question implies, i was just thinking maybe i should get the car lowered first then get mitsubishi to check over it just to make sure everything is okay. Would they charge me for this?

If i do buy these parts for my car service, and the dealership says something about not using it, what should i say?
Everybody knows what mitsubishi is like and their warranty. What should i say to them if they dont think i should use that type of oil, or filter or coolant or whatever?

What sort of price would i be looking at if i supplied all these parts?
If you could just give me a rough figure that would be great, if you could include an estimate on how much the service labor itself will be aswell, that would be great


So in total, if you could answer these questions for me, it would help me soooo much.

Ill say this now, i dont care if you think mitsubishi is ripping me off rar rar rar, i know they are, i just want to make sure that my car is serviced by someone who has done hundreds of them. I KNOW!, i know how to keep your warranty and service it yourself, so dont blab about that either. Im just looking for straight up answers on what i should expect.




If you wanna just cut n paste this when you reply go nutz

I want to supply my own oil, Which one to get?

I want to supply my own oil filter, which one to get?

IF i want to supply my own coolant, which one to get?

Manual Transmission fluid, Should i provide my own? Recomendations?

Brake fluid, I dont think this is low, i can check, but if it is, should i supply my own?

Im getting my car lowered soon, should i wait to get the car lowered before i get it serviced?

If i do buy these parts for my car service, and the dealership says something about not using it, what should i say?



THANKS GUYSSS!

The best thing to do is read your manual and see what is recommended by Mitsubishi, and by something better. This way warrenty wont be effected because the product you have supplied is better than recommended.

Thats what i mean though, i dont know whats better lol. I need help!!!

According to your manual the only thing Mitsubishi is going to change at 15000 is your oil and oil filter. Oil required in Australia is only a 20W-40 and must have ACEA classifactions A1/B1,A3/B3,A3/B4 0r A5/B5 which covers most mineral oils in Aus (cheapest), Being a DD and not driven hard best to use a Semi-Syn Oil of 10W-40 for decent pricing.

Sweet thanks for that info speedie. Im currently messaging my friends dad about it. Cheap servicing for meee xD.

Any recomendations on the oil filters themselves?

Ryco and AC Delco are used by service centres around the world. You could then Upgrade to a K&N. The best thing to add to any oil filter is this http://www.filterplus.com.au/FilterPlus.htm

I ended up purchasing a bottle of 10W-40 semi-syn durablend. As for oil filters, I got the K&N ones.

Opinions differ across the board and I feel since I do mostly short-distance, cold-start, stuck in jams and all that, a slightly thicker oil would be better for me than 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 etc.

The only 10W-40 that is fully-syn is what Ryan_C suggested, that is the Nulon Hi-Flow, I thought about that but I feel I should only go full-syn until my 15k.

Not that ive heard bad things about ryco products, ive just heard there are better ones out there.

That filter plus thing looks pretty interesting, i will defintly look into that..

Thanks speedie!

Edit:

thanks for that jmi, i mainly stick to freeways as much as i can, my car basicly lives its life at around 70-100kmh. Theres not too many roads around me that warrant a 50 or 60, besides the residential streets of course.

So, suggesting a semi synthetic oil...what weight do you think? whatever "weight" means for oil..

The SAE viscosity number or weight should be selected according to the atmosphric temperature in which the car is driven. A SAE 20W-40 is good for conditions ranging from -10oC to 50oC. A SAE 10W-40 is good for -25oC to 50oC.

Correct me if I am wrong, but since summer is coming soon, according to the manual, a 10W-40, 15W-40 can hold the heat much better.

It seems that the higher the W (Winter) rating, the thicker the oil is. I guess thickness is the weight? The thicker the oil, the harder the engine will have to work to "flow" it, and in colder countries, thinner oil it flows easier. I think the downside with thicker oil is it might be sluggish since the engine got to work harder. But as the temp rises, thicker oil will not "break down" that fast, thus providing the lubrication which protects the engine.

The other part is to consider full or semi syn. For full syn, the Nulon 10W-40 Hi-Flow quite decent for the price. Also Australian.

I went for semi and the only one I found was the Valvoline You Know What I Mean Durablend 10W-40.

the lower viscosities are good for colder weather they don't need a lot of heat to move through the engine it the last number you have to look at. Add 10 to it and you have your maxium atmospheric temperature for protected use.

Although i have a basic grasp on what this viscosity is and all that, most of the stuff went straight over my head.

During summer, i would like to say i would drive it alot since it is school hoilidays, something with a higher heat tollerance would be better yes?

i am using the gen filters on my car for the reason that if i do have a problem with it they dont realy have a leg to stand on... turbo models take part number MD356000 and all other MZ690115 when it comes to oil im using castrol edge 5w/30... the gen oil is a 15w/50

Victoria isn't going to get over 40oC or drop to -10oC even in summer so there is no need to go above a 20W-40 for a run-around. If you are looking at tracking the car or towing a caravan then look for a better oil. Going between a mineral or Synthetic pushes up the price and in the weight range your looking at the only thing it will do is reduce the impureities in the oil and the friction modifiers are different

is that 20W-40 a semi synthetic? Just want to make sure i get the correct motor oil. The car usally runs into the 5k rpm range when shifting, but im never like flooring it there...