Best aftermarket DRL

[davmax]

Thanks Blakey - I hadn't noticed but would have ended up with a wire needing power!

To davmax - do you have any pictures of your DRLs?

How did you go about fabricating the focal components? I wish I listened more in calculus classes in high school.....

What is the 'DRL controller' you refer to in your DRL connection diagram?

If you fit these DRLs you have made to your car, how will you circumvent the marking requirements of ADR 76/00?

One at a time.

1. I will post pictures. Currently I can show assembly before completion of a front bezel. Also the controller is seperate and I will now integrate it into the lamp assembly then send photos.
2. Focal components are already made and designed to fit XPG LED supplier Cutter Electronics
3. The LEDs in a DRL need to be supplied with a controlled constant current. So all DRL kits will have some controller to achieve this. In lots cases it will be built into each lamp.
4. Clearly there is no way that I can afford testing and approval, therefore I have to test myself and make sure that I comply, should there be any challenge.
My lamps keep within the max 1200Cd in any direction and comply with the light pattern laid down in UNECE 87 eg not less than 50% at 15 degrees off axis in horizontal (tested to be 52%).

The cost of components is less $150.00 and having made these I can see that less expensive LEDS could be used. The secret of the light efficiency and pattern is in the choice of optics (90% efficient).

I have finished testing, just need the clean up assembly and install in car.

If anybody is game I can later list components and costs and assembly detail. It is a bit fiddly hand building (basically prototyping).

Have you read my document covering Aftermarket DRLs? Hopefully it will help buyers and sellers recognise misinformation etc.

Link to optics data sheet: http://www.ledil.fi/datasheets/DataSheet_Tina-XP-G.pdf
See last beam shape for the XP-G-O oval beam.

[Bandit]

I read your aftermarket DRLs and I must admit, you were preaching to the converted there. I often send messages to eBay sellers making false claims regarding their products. Very rarely do I get responses and even more rarely (ie. never) has an advertisement been corrected!

I am looking forward to seeing your pictures.

The LEDs in your link above look very similar to those used by Hella in their LEDay Flex range.

[davmax]

I would like to issue a word of caution about Australian eBay seller v-lites and DRL products. There are some non complying strip LED lights on offer and a number of products are twice the price of the same products purchased directly from China(on eBay). Importantly v-lites offers no warranty and specifies no returns whereas the Chinese offer warranty and a return service.

A set of promising DRLs has been purchased from China for $59 including postage. These will be tested for performance and life expectancy and then installed. Should prove enlightening.

[davmax]

I have purchased and tested a Chinese made DRL model DL1 as sold on eBay. I was hopeful it would meet the DRL standards due to the quoted LED lamp currents. Testing revealed that indeed there is sufficient Lumens available to get to 1200Cd but unfortunately the very poor optics scatters light widely so that the end result is that the Candela intensity in the required forward direction is well below the 400Cd minimum requirement at 210Cd. This may be why the product is not quoted in Candela as required and instead using a misleading Lumen figure.

This is a classic case of a Lumen measure being meaningless with focused light.

The testing indicates that this product would in no way meet the UNECE87 requirements and therefore any claims of E4 certification are not valid.
This product is the same as the one offered by v-lites on eBay for $120.00 with no returns.

For those interested the Testing and Assessment documents may be found here. http://cid-f83bf1ac32452395.office.live ... ublic?uc=2

This testing makes it very clear that non compliant products are being sold under supposed E4 certification both from China and Australia.

To the inexperienced they may look bright, do not be deceived.

[davmax]

DRL photos. Installed in Subaru left DRL old, right new at nearly 1200 Candela

[minimumtrade]

I notice that powerbulbs.co.uk have the PHILIPS branded DRL's now.

Works out to be about [s]$215AU[/s] $195AU delivered when you use the voucher code "AYSCX1729"

I don't think anyone is going have any trouble with Philips branded lighting product.

Philips website says they are rated to 650 Candela

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product_detail.asp?prod=162

[davmax]

The Philips product appears to be a good solution. I wonder why opting for 650 Candela when 1200 is the limit. From my prototype it was not hard to obtain above 1200.

I note that Google have picked up on my testing. When Googling Chinese DRL. Looking at the Chinese offerings in that Google search it became clear that most are effectively the same product as tested, all being peddled at different prices and all quoting the same specs in the same manner ie the spec of a single LED not the product.

[Aspired]

I have placed a suite of relevant DRL pdf docs on the web. One is simple connection detail for DRLs.
link: http://cid-f83bf1ac32452395.office.live ... AC32452395

Connection 87 would be live when the headlights are on, so it would be a good idea to cover it.
Do you think it would be OK to cut the +12 volt headlight feed, connect it to 86 and then connect
the other end of the headlight wire to 87, or would this interfere/cause an issue with my headlights(HID)

Should I use 2 relays, one for each side or just use one for both sides ?

[Aspired]

I just had a look in the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed there is a spot for a 10Amp fuse and a spot for a Relay labeled DRL , I can't find my test light so I have not been been able to check how power gets routed through these points. Is there power across the 10A fuse with the lights off and no power with the lights on ?

I need to find the service manual with the wiring diagram for the fuse box to see if these points are wired up and how they are wired up. I'm thinking maybe I can tap into these points to use for my DRL install, but I can't find the link to the download.

[davmax]

I have placed a suite of relevant DRL pdf docs on the web. One is simple connection detail for DRLs.
link: http://cid-f83bf1ac32452395.office.live ... AC32452395

Connection 87 would be live when the headlights are on, so it would be a good idea to cover it.
Do you think it would be OK to cut the +12 volt headlight feed, connect it to 86 and then connect
the other end of the headlight wire to 87, or would this interfere/cause an issue with my headlights(HID)

Should I use 2 relays, one for each side or just use one for both sides ?

A number of terminals will be live so use insulated crimps on connectors for all, one can be used to insulate 87.

Your suggestion of connecting the headlight lead to 87 has some merit, however the headlight current is quite high and would not be a match for the ignition circuit and fusing in the supply to 30. I would normally cut the headlight lead and use a straight joiner crimp to both rejoin and add a break out lead to go to 86.

Only one relay is needed for both LED DRLs, they are low current so no problem.

You will certainly need a wiring diagram for you to use the existing fuse box components.

[Aspired]

Your suggestion of connecting the headlight lead to 87 has some merit, however the headlight current is quite high and would not be a match for the ignition circuit and fusing in the supply to 30.

How about using the parker lights wire instead of the headlights ?
The parkers are also on when the headlights are on and they would require less current then my HID headlights.

[davmax]

Your suggestion of connecting the headlight lead to 87 has some merit, however the headlight current is quite high and would not be a match for the ignition circuit and fusing in the supply to 30.

How about using the parker lights wire instead of the headlights ?
The parkers are also on when the headlights are on and they would require less current then my HID headlights.

Essentially your proposal changes the supply to the parkers (originally headlight proposal) to supply the low current relay and use the ignition circuit to supply the lamp load.

Taking from the parkers does mean that you have removed the option to have parkers plus DRLs on in low light. Taking from the headlight lead is compliant with the requirements.

I believe the best way to take a break out lead from the headlight line to the relay is to use a break-in connector that requires no lead stripping just a pair of pliers to squeeze it lot together.

[Aspired]

I leave my lights in auto mode, which means I never have just the parkers on, its always parkers and headlights.

[emphat]

hey guys, that first kit with the audi q7 on the front for 129 dollars, i can buy for around 30-40 dollars a kit, if we order 20+ who ever organises group buys if he could contact me and i will email him some info if anyone is interested.

[davmax]

If anybody is looking for bargain DRLs on eBay, sadly I have not seen any bargains the meet the safety requirements of the DRL spec. The vast majority of products called DRL are simply decorations that are typically only effective in low light or at night. Therefore buyers are being misled by dishonest suppliers (probably do not know what they are selling).
So the name DRL is misused and should be NRL (Night Running Light).

If you really need a DRL go for reputable brands like Philips or Hella.