ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Hi I am looking at going 5mm or 10mm sound deadener foam in boot from Clark Rubber.

Looking at:

* Between boot carpet and on top of spare wheel wooden board.
- using non-adhesive

* The area at the top of the boot which has no carpet.
- using adhesive.

My question is regarding electrical and air holes. Anyone know if there is anything I need to ensure isn't covered for safety?

Thanks

I wouldn't advise foam as it typically is water absorbent, and could rot if it gets damp. Better to use proper car audio sound deadening, there is a few well known brands and it can be cheaper to buy online.

Thanks for the tip. I had that thought as well but would the boot get moisture? I can see door panels being an issue.

I just assumed because carpet and the spare is in there, it probably doesn't get much moisture? Please correct me if this isn't right like condensation or something?

Thanks

Well your boot is a storage area, and things sometimes leak despite your best efforts

Speaking of the boot..

Does a rubber-like boot floor mat exist that can fit on our cars? The stock one in the car makes everything slide around everywhere. :/

Yep. I got one to help dampen the drone haha.

Funny enough after I mentioned it, the guy who sold it to me is a club member

yes u can get one for ours seffy from mits

eBay Seffy - around $39+++

Thanks, slick. (:

The key to stop things sliding in the boot is either use a net or have lots in the boot so things don't move about LOL

A few questions on sound deadening.
a) How hard is it to install sound deadening in the boot and doors?
b) Expected cost to buy and DIY?
c) Are the cheap $40 boot liners worth it over the much more expensive genuine Mitsy one?

I have no problem with the 'noise' my VRX makes on the HWY or around town but when traveling with others in the car and trying to talk to people in the back is can be annoying some times on harsh road surfaces.

Forgot to add, is there a DIY on the site for sound deadening install, boot and doors?

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
http://www.carbuilders.com.au/sound-deadener

These are the products you need.

Sound deadener showdown will explain the theory behind sound proofing and what products to use, and you can get some of the products from carbuilders.

In summary, there are 3 required layers:

1. a Butyl/aluminium sound deadener (ie dynamat or db-kill or carbuilders' product) to be adhered to each panel (covering 25% of the panel), this will stop a lot of noises from happening to begin with (stops panel vibration).

2 a CCF (Closed Cell Foam) layer to buffer any vibrations that still occur.

3 A heavy flexible material to absorb and block any residual noise, the ideal material at the moment is Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) which is very heavy!

Of the above setup step 1 is the most important, and steps 2 and 3 can be done with a scaled approach. The foam must be 'closed cell' foam so it doesn't absorb water and rot.

Car builders have a 12mm product with soft foam and thick foam which might be an easier, lighter, and affordable approach to steps 2 and 3.

Mind you I haven't done this to my car yet, so I don't know how effective the different steps truly are, but from all reports, sound deadener is required for the CJ, and makes a huge improvement.

Search the forum, there is plenty of info on here about it.

Lancer1993 wrote: Forgot to add, is there a DIY on the site for sound deadening install, boot and doors?

There are 2 DIYs in the DIY section that are sticky, they are OK, but I don't think they use sound deadener which is the most important product to use.

I haven't done it, it doesn't seem that hard, boot is easiest because it is already exposed, the sides, boot, and bootlid however, require trim to be removed which can be a slow painful process.

The act of applying it seems relatively easy.

I have sound proofed my boot and am very happy with results.
Go ahead and use foam under your carpet as the existing under felt on your carpet holds water likewise. So whats the difference? Water shouldn't get in there anyway and if it does carpets etc: should be pulled out and dried and leak fixed..

I used it and used 1.5mm rubber from Clark Rubber glued to the floor under it. Did the same to wheel arches under carpets on either side and a patch of both on the inside of the rear mudguards also, the wheel well and filled all the spaces between the braces udder the carpet in the boot lid. placed foam under bare areas under parcel shelf in boot. Checked air flow through car,all OK. Lid sounds great when you close it.

Rubber used to block noise from entering boot and foam to absorb noise that does get passed it, also rubber reduces sheet metal vibration.

Have attacked front of car under hood to keep engine noise down. lot easier slightly different approach.

Best way to get rid of really heaps of noise in the my15 ES sport (other models?) Ditch the Yokoharma tyres.
I ditched mine after 3oookm and OH!!! what a difference, peace at last. Was getting there nicely with sound proofing
but changing tyres was a quantum leap forward. By the way I swapped to Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus.
Understand that Michelin LC and same Kuhmo! not sure of spelling are also fine.