Hi Guys,
New member from Sydney, just bought a 2010 Ralliart sedan.
Just wanted some suggestions on what to upgrade First (Engine/Cosmetic) for more performance or meaner unique look. Also didn't want to void any manufactures warranty .
Was thinking exhaust and maybe lowering first, just wanted peoples opinion on this as never been much of a car person.
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New Member stock ralliart - GO74RT
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Welcome to the club! Good choice on the car. Its brilliant to drive. Suspension is probably a must! definitely have to lower it! joking
but i'd recommend you look into giving the car a bit of a tune.
but i'd recommend you look into giving the car a bit of a tune.
-Beeble spec custom tune (182kw 383nm)
-Cosworth Air Filter
-Evo X BOV
-Evo X Intercooler
-Grimmspeed 3 port
-Ultimate Racing UPICP & LICP
-HFC & Ultimate Racing catback
-Cosworth Air Filter
-Evo X BOV
-Evo X Intercooler
-Grimmspeed 3 port
-Ultimate Racing UPICP & LICP
-HFC & Ultimate Racing catback
Mizta B wrote:Welcome Adam Enjoy ClubCJ its a friendly place to learn about your car Cheers Mizta B
Thanks, look forward to it.
Momengah wrote:Welcome to the club! Good choice on the car. Its brilliant to drive. Suspension is probably a must! definitely have to lower it! joking but id recommend you look into giving the car a bit of a tune.
Do you mean Dyno tune? Lets pretend for a second that i'm a complete "noob" at this and i need someone to hold my hand lol. Whats involved, how much and most importantly does it void manufactures warranty?
depends what your goal is / how much your willing to spend/change.
for basic tune you can either borrow or get a tactrix 2.0 (fancy plug so your computer can talk to your car)
you can then download free base maps/get someone to tune
stock car stock tune 193hp
only gst base map 215hp (plug computer to car and basically download the new maps)
boost pill + gst base map 225hp which is a conservative tune.
the boost pill is a little piece of brass that goes into one of the hoses to basically make the hose diameter smaller.
So best case if you can find someone with a cable, 25$ for 32hp or 0$ for 22hp
Exhaust would be a close 2nd followed by some dyno time to tweak the base maps to squeeze a bit more out of it.
For looks, lowering probably makes the biggest difference. Again depends on budget but coilovers give alot more options to change the ride height and suspension performance.
Most people have done exhaust/coilovers/tunes and bring them in for service with no issues.
for basic tune you can either borrow or get a tactrix 2.0 (fancy plug so your computer can talk to your car)
you can then download free base maps/get someone to tune
stock car stock tune 193hp
only gst base map 215hp (plug computer to car and basically download the new maps)
boost pill + gst base map 225hp which is a conservative tune.
the boost pill is a little piece of brass that goes into one of the hoses to basically make the hose diameter smaller.
So best case if you can find someone with a cable, 25$ for 32hp or 0$ for 22hp
Exhaust would be a close 2nd followed by some dyno time to tweak the base maps to squeeze a bit more out of it.
For looks, lowering probably makes the biggest difference. Again depends on budget but coilovers give alot more options to change the ride height and suspension performance.
Most people have done exhaust/coilovers/tunes and bring them in for service with no issues.
- Alileighju
- Lancer Evolution
- Posts: 816
- Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 12:51 am
- Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Glenn wrote:depends what your goal is / how much your willing to spend/change. for basic tune you can either borrow or get a tactrix 2.0 (fancy plug so your computer can talk to your car) you can then download free base maps/get someone to tune stock car stock tune 193hp only gst base map 215hp (plug computer to car and basically download the new maps) boost pill + gst base map 225hp which is a conservative tune. the boost pill is a little piece of brass that goes into one of the hoses to basically make the hose diameter smaller. So best case if you can find someone with a cable, 25$ for 32hp or 0$ for 22hp Exhaust would be a close 2nd followed by some dyno time to tweak the base maps to squeeze a bit more out of it. For looks, lowering probably makes the biggest difference. Again depends on budget but coilovers give alot more options to change the ride height and suspension performance. Most people have done exhaust/coilovers/tunes and bring them in for service with no issues.
Thanks for the information Glenn,
I've heard bad things about the boost pill, how i shouldnt play around with that as it could damage the car. What is your take on this?
depends on how you play with it!
Boost pill with no tune will not make the car happy
boost pill with suitable tune will make you happy. quite a few guys running this set up with no issues and those base tunes are made to be pretty conservative.
stock boost curve peaks at like 18 then quickly dies out to 12ish
with the tune and the finer control that the boost pill gives you can get around 21 and hold boost for much longer.
You could also go the 3port/electronic boost control route which does the same thing just a bit more precisely and a bit more effectively but they're a little bit more $
Boost pill with no tune will not make the car happy
boost pill with suitable tune will make you happy. quite a few guys running this set up with no issues and those base tunes are made to be pretty conservative.
stock boost curve peaks at like 18 then quickly dies out to 12ish
with the tune and the finer control that the boost pill gives you can get around 21 and hold boost for much longer.
You could also go the 3port/electronic boost control route which does the same thing just a bit more precisely and a bit more effectively but they're a little bit more $
I found this online, not too expensive.
http://www.roadtrackrally.com.au/store/ ... -port.html
Is this what you were talking about, looks fairly straight forward to install myself, or would be best to get it done professionally because needs a tune anyway?
For the tune, what am i looking at paying for it do you reckon?
http://www.roadtrackrally.com.au/store/ ... -port.html
Is this what you were talking about, looks fairly straight forward to install myself, or would be best to get it done professionally because needs a tune anyway?
For the tune, what am i looking at paying for it do you reckon?
- ClubspecCustomDesigns
- Club Sponsor
- Posts: 890
- Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:36 pm
- Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
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Hi Adam,
Congrats on your ride, im sure you will enjoy it.
i will reccomend you to get your car tuned by a proffesional, and if you want to use a grimmspeed you will need it to be custom tuned.
You will be looking around $900-1000 for a custom tune.
http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=6525
Ive have seen many people that have issues with tunes so be careful who you take your car to.
The GST tunes are good but you understand its a FREE tune which is a just a base to give you a little more power. I will always reccomend a custom tune.
Check out Creatd Motorsports these guys are master of these cars and have tuned many members RA and Evo's.
Check out there facebook page as there website is down.
Good luck.
Congrats on your ride, im sure you will enjoy it.
i will reccomend you to get your car tuned by a proffesional, and if you want to use a grimmspeed you will need it to be custom tuned.
You will be looking around $900-1000 for a custom tune.
http://clubcj.net/viewtopic.php?t=6525
Ive have seen many people that have issues with tunes so be careful who you take your car to.
The GST tunes are good but you understand its a FREE tune which is a just a base to give you a little more power. I will always reccomend a custom tune.
Check out Creatd Motorsports these guys are master of these cars and have tuned many members RA and Evo's.
Check out there facebook page as there website is down.
Good luck.
Yup that grimmspeed is the one. Its a very simple install. The GST map would need a little bit of tweaking to work best with it compared to the boostpill. It will work without any tweaks though since the ecu targets a boost level and adjusts the 3port as needed but it'll react a bit slower and you wont be getting full potential out of it.
I agree with Nick to an extent that a pro tune would be the way to go and Creat'd is probably by far one of the better if not best places to go to. If I wasn't tuning my car myself they would be at the top of the list
But for ~1000$ your gonna want to be sure you've got all the parts and everything for whatever your goal is before getting it on the dyno.
If your not chasing big numbers and would be content with a 180kw mid 13sec car then the GST maps are perfectly fine.
It's like the 80:20 rule
For about 20% of the cost you get 80% of the potential, that last 20% of potential is gonna take someone fine tuning it and some exhaust/intercooler upgrades which is gonna be 80% of the cost/time.
Except its more like 1% of the cost for 90% of the performance!
I agree with Nick to an extent that a pro tune would be the way to go and Creat'd is probably by far one of the better if not best places to go to. If I wasn't tuning my car myself they would be at the top of the list
But for ~1000$ your gonna want to be sure you've got all the parts and everything for whatever your goal is before getting it on the dyno.
If your not chasing big numbers and would be content with a 180kw mid 13sec car then the GST maps are perfectly fine.
It's like the 80:20 rule
For about 20% of the cost you get 80% of the potential, that last 20% of potential is gonna take someone fine tuning it and some exhaust/intercooler upgrades which is gonna be 80% of the cost/time.
Except its more like 1% of the cost for 90% of the performance!
- bunnishiwa
- Lancer Legend
- Posts: 1284
- Joined: Thu Dec 24, 2009 4:22 pm
- Location: Rye, Melbourne
So, the grimspeed will work with an untweaked GST boost pill tune......
Hmmmmm.....
You say the nicest things Glenn.....
Hmmmmm.....
You say the nicest things Glenn.....
- Self tuned - work in progress - tune revision #16_03
- GS 3 port controlled wooooot
- Lowered on Kings
- Black Evo X FMIC/ Evo IX BOV/ Depo HFC/ UR UICP
- Awesome self installed Alpine/JL Audio sound system
- Whiteline Rear Swaybar
Noli Timere Messorem
- GS 3 port controlled wooooot
- Lowered on Kings
- Black Evo X FMIC/ Evo IX BOV/ Depo HFC/ UR UICP
- Awesome self installed Alpine/JL Audio sound system
- Whiteline Rear Swaybar
Noli Timere Messorem
Yup Thats what I started with.
You wont notice much driving wise, unless you mount it the car frame in which case you'll hear a constant tap tap tap so i suggest you mount it to the airbox or something else thats somewhat suspended/dampened.
What you'll notice in the logs is that the boost will overshoot the target on spool up since the 3ports acts much faster that stock, then error correction kicks in and brings it back down below your target and then upward corrects etc for about 500-1000rpm until your boost curve is "settling" .
By overshoot I mean 1 to 2 psi from your 21 target so your still in the safe zone.
With a very minimal tweak you can tell the 3port to not act as aggressive at certain times so that the ecu has to do minimal corrections and you get to your target boost right away.
Its just a valve that opens and closes on a set cycle. Faster the cycle, quicker you'll build boost/more boost you can maintain since the actual wastegate on the turbo "sees" less pressure.
If you take a look at the reactive WGDC maps under the Turbo section in ecuflash you'll kinda see the trend. You want to build boost quickly at low rpm then balance things to get a flat boost curve, and then at the high rpms try to hang on to the boost as the trubo runs out of puff.
I found that for my car and 3port, i was overshooting so i reduced the values in the lower rpms and fine tuned the middle section.
Now if your logging, the car will actually tell you how much its had to change the maps by and when. You'll see that the ecu has either added or subtracted from your WGDC map what it requires to hit your boost target map at a certain rpm. So to help out the ecu and reduce the correction swings you can just add or subtract your map by the same!!
You wont notice much driving wise, unless you mount it the car frame in which case you'll hear a constant tap tap tap so i suggest you mount it to the airbox or something else thats somewhat suspended/dampened.
What you'll notice in the logs is that the boost will overshoot the target on spool up since the 3ports acts much faster that stock, then error correction kicks in and brings it back down below your target and then upward corrects etc for about 500-1000rpm until your boost curve is "settling" .
By overshoot I mean 1 to 2 psi from your 21 target so your still in the safe zone.
With a very minimal tweak you can tell the 3port to not act as aggressive at certain times so that the ecu has to do minimal corrections and you get to your target boost right away.
Its just a valve that opens and closes on a set cycle. Faster the cycle, quicker you'll build boost/more boost you can maintain since the actual wastegate on the turbo "sees" less pressure.
If you take a look at the reactive WGDC maps under the Turbo section in ecuflash you'll kinda see the trend. You want to build boost quickly at low rpm then balance things to get a flat boost curve, and then at the high rpms try to hang on to the boost as the trubo runs out of puff.
I found that for my car and 3port, i was overshooting so i reduced the values in the lower rpms and fine tuned the middle section.
Now if your logging, the car will actually tell you how much its had to change the maps by and when. You'll see that the ecu has either added or subtracted from your WGDC map what it requires to hit your boost target map at a certain rpm. So to help out the ecu and reduce the correction swings you can just add or subtract your map by the same!!
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